Yeah It's About That Time

With daylight savings time ending last week, it's about that time when the effects of Hawaii typically wears off and I'm craving to go back to the islands. Even a week-long quick Oahu trip will satiate the holiday blues.

Island On The Mainland

Besides Mai Tai's, this is the only other drink I consume when I'm in the islands.  My regular stores, Vons, Ralphs, Trader Joe's or Fresh N Easy do not carry anything from the Kona Brewing Co.  Last night, I went into the Bev Mo in Rancho Cucamonga looking for some other brew (looking for Endless Summer which I haven't seen anywhere else but from a truck I was following on the 405 freeway).  Didn't find Endless Summer but I did find these Kona Brewing Co. lager and ale six packs -- at a sale price of $7.99 each.  That is less than what I paid in Kapaa 3 weeks ago so I was pretty stoked!  I should really go back to Bev Mo and get a few more of these.  Beats a 5-hour plane ride to the 808 state.

Memories Of Kamalani Playground

There's always a point in life when you move on to the next phase.  Most of the time it is distinct and life changing.  Other times, you really need to pay close attention or you'll miss it.  Kamalani Playground in Lydgate Park in Kauai was built by 7000 volunteers back in 1994 and when we first visited Kauai in 2005 with the kids, we were just in awe at the size of this playground.  Not a typical park playset on the mainland, Kamalani (Hawaiian for "chief's child") is so complex that you can play there for hours and just about the only way of navigating through it is by using these ceramic mosaics scattered along its walls and corners.  In 2005 and 2007, we visited the beach at Lydgate Park several times and then played at Kamalani immediately after.  This year, I took the kids to Kamalani and although the kids still ran around, it just wasn't the same anymore.  Body surfing and body boarding in Brennecke's Beach in Poipu was more their "thing".  I understand.  After all, JJ and Sam are now 12 and 14, respectively.  So given that I will most likely book our hotel in Poipu next time we visit, we will probably not return to Kamalani.  Last month, I did take several photos of these ceramic mosaics just to serve as a reminder of the countless hours we've spent enjoying our time there.

Kapaa Sunrise (2012)

Ono Family Restaurant, Kapaa (2012)

Moon Glow I (2012) - by Schar Freeman

When I bought this original piece of art in Hanapepe last week, two things of note are worth mentioning.  I'm typically not a seascape-type of person.  Never had been and probably never will be.  Nothing about other artists' work have interested me from the overpriced blue-ocean-whale-dolphin gallery products are most tourist traps to watercolors of waves splashing on the shore.  The other thing is that I don't usually buy mixed media pieces just because I just can't decide whether they are paintings or sculpture.  When I found 3"x2.25" painting at the Banana Patch Studio, I knew I just have to buy it.  Just the previous night, the kids and I sat at the beach just outside our hotel and this image is what I had embedded in my mind to represent that special moment.  We had just got back from dinner around 9pm and Sam and JJ asked if they can eat their treat by the ocean.  I hesitated but agreed when I realized the ocean was moonlit and the breeze was most pleasant.  I've been searching for any sign since we got to Kauai days earlier and at that moment, I realized that it was all in front of me all along.  My kids happiness is the key to my happiness.  I probably will never buy another artwork by Schar Freeeman but this particular one titled "Moon Glow I" will forever remind me of that thought I had on the night we all sat on our beach chairs enjoying what we have in front of us.  Life.

Smith's Luau

In Kauai for 11 days and not eating in the same restaurant more than once is a worthy feat.  But the main meal we all looked forward to was going to a luau -- which we haven't done since December 2007.  Ironically, the last luau we went to was held at the Marriott, which is were we stayed on this trip.  However, that luau (Hiva Pasefika) is no longer around so we tried Smith's Garden Luau just steps from the Wailua River.  Above is the obligatory luau photo that was taken with me and my two hapa haole boys as we entered the Smith compound.  Who would risk going to a luau named Smith's and not question its Hawaiian authenticity, right?  (Turned out Smith is 3rd generation Hawaiian but is the paternal name from England.  Maternal is full Hawaiian.)  The food from Smith's is much better but maybe that's not a valid comparison since it's been 5 years since I've been to a luau.  One thing I'm sure, however, that the Hiva Pasefika show was better, had audience participation and more professional.  Smith's is a family-run business and that includes performers.  Overall, if I have to go to a Kauai luau again, I'll probably go back to Smith's.

Hike #8 - Pihea Trail

Two words to describe this trail we did today. Breath-taking. Muddy.  Most of the 3.5 miles we did to Alakai Crossing and back were of the breath-taking variety with amazing views of the Na Pali coast on the west side of Kauai or the greenest of forests we've had the good fortune to hike through.  However, there is a 1/3 mile stretch just after Pihea Vista that is muddy, slippery and fun.  I'm guessing the elevation to be somewhere between 4000 and 5000 feet and I don't think the ground ever dries anytime.  The red Kauai dirt coupled with ever present mist creates the most challenging hike we've done to date.  And the most fun as well.

Below is Sam with the Na Pali coast below.  A good 4000 feet from the ridge where we started the hike.  We heard several helicopters -- the primary way to tour the coast.  The other way is via boat (usually a catamaran) and I'm assuming hiking is the least popular method.  I'm still hoping the kids would like to hike down the coast some time in the future.

We didn't expect mud when we started.  In fact, I started hearing complaints about this hike being boring, as if views of the Na Pali coast was not good enough.  About 1 mile into the hike we started seeing people on their way back with mud on their shoes, legs, shorts, hands, etc.  At that point, I knew we were in for an adventure.  So it became a game of who can hike through the mud without getting any on their leg.  Nobody got any mud on their leg but Sam fell on his butt at least 3 times from slipping.

There were these wooden boards covered with chicken wire that was laid over the forest floor that made trekking across the swamp easier.  At some point in the future, I'd like to do the entire Alakai Swamp trail as well -- which I've read had these boards for most of the hike.  On our way back the car, we were talking about how boring our hikes back in California would be.  These last 10 days were just the most amazing time I've ever had on these islands.  I don't see how we can ever consider any other island for next year's Hawaii trip.

Strawberry Guava

I was introduced to the strawberry guava during our hike to Nounou Mt Trail a couple days ago.  Little did I realize that these trees grow at an alarming rate and tends to take over countless acres of native Hawaiian forest.  Also known as "waiawi", the plant was introduced in the 1800s from Brazil and is actually Hawaii's most destructive non-native species.  I never really had an appreciation for why I had to fill out the agriculture declaration forms flying into the islands but after what I've read on the strawberry guava, I do now.  The only thing worse than the strawberry guava taking over Hawaiian forest is the state government using herbicide (poison) to eradicate the plant -- which had been proposed but hopefully rejected for obvious reasons.

Hike #7 - Nounou Mountain

I was a little hesitant to do this hike based on what I've read on its dangers but today, I decided we take a conservative approach to the ascent up Nounou Mountain in Kapaa.  The good thing about the hike is that it's literally a mile from where we're staying in town.  There's actually several good things about this hike including the excellent workout I got (1.6 mile with 800 ft elevation gain), a great view of Kapaa, Wailua and Lihue and the nice tropical terrain.  This is Hike #7 for the kids and the 3rd we've done while in Kauai.

This is the 10th year the kids have been going to Hawaii and for the first time ever, I felt that we can actually appreciate much more what the islands have to offer. We tried some hiking in Oahu last year but those were more of the short, tourist walk variety.  Maybe next year, we take on longer adventures like backpacking or day hikes.

Below is a good view of Wailua and Lihue in the far distance.  The eastern trail that we hiked up took over an hour and our shirts were soaked from the humidity.  One of the things I read about is the number of accidents on this hike especially during the wet months.

On our way back, we were fairly relaxed so we started looking for some of these small guava plants for ripe fruit.  Unlike the guavas I grew up eating (typically the size of a ping-pong ball), these are no larger than a small grape.  Sam tried a couple ripe ones and of course, I had several.  There were literally thousands of guavas growing in the wild it seems.

Kalihiwai Beach

On our way trying to find Secret Beach, we ended up in Kalihiwai Beach just half a mile west of the Kilauea.  There was no sign on the main road whatsoever about this beach so there were hardly any tourists(except us) enjoying the surf.  Mostly locals, which I can tell from the cars they drive (no self-respecting local would get caught dead in a Chevy Malibu.).  The waves are not as good as Brennecke's but I got a few good rides on the boogie board, nonetheless.

The lava pools, which is supposed to be accessible only from Secret Beach is actually just to the right of the cliff in the photo below.  I looked it up in the map when we got back to the hotel and realized we were oh, so close.  But the consolation prize of Kalihiwai Beach wasn't bad.  We stayed at over 2 hours, playing in the sand, boogie boarding and body surfing.

 I did notice this surfboard memorial nailed to a tree for a certain Bruce Sinjin Perdue who died at a young age of 23 sometime in May 2012.  With a little bit of research, I found out he died in car accident driving home to his residence in Kilauea.  I've never been to Kalihiwai Beach before but it certainly looks like a small, tight-knit community and can only imagine how devastating it must be to lose someone so young to tragedy.  If I lived here, I would have my ashes spread here as well.

Hike #6 - Cliff Canyon Trail to Waipo'o Falls

This is our second hike in Kauai and started just inside Kokee State Park on the west side of the island.  The hike started at over 3500 feet and the terrain is a lot different from the tropical rainforest hike we did just a couple days ago.  Hiking on the dry side of Kauai made the 3.6 mile loop feel like we were in somewhere in California or Arizona.  (There is good reason to call Waimea Canyon the Grand Canyon of the Pacific.)

 About 1 1/3 mile into the hike, we found out why this is call the Cliff Canyon Trail.  No guardrails or any other barrier between us and a steep 2000+ foot drop to the bottom of the canyon.  The terrain has that American Southwest / desert feel as we scaled the side of the canyon to Waipo'o falls.

Once we got to Waipo'o Falls, we were somewhat disappointed that it wasn't more than a 20-foot waterfall -- given some of the waterfalls in Kauai, this one is more of a stream drop.  The hike back was mostly uphill but the kids were tired enough to sleep all the way down the 15-mile drive to the town of Waimea.

Tired enough to nap but not too tired to skip Brennecke's Beach on the way back.  Our fourth time boogie-boarding/body surfing in as many days was a 2-hr session.  I, we, can get used to this life.

Brennecke's Beach (Poipu, Kauai)

Brennecke's Beach is in Poipu and we've been there 3 times in as many days.  About 15 miles from where we're staying in Kapa'a, Brennecke's is the best boogie boarding and bodysurfing spot we've seen in Kauai.  They call it for beginners but given our skill level, it is more than what we can handle.  I can stand out a hundred yards in the water and it is only waist-deep but the backwash could be nasty and shoot anyone up about 10 feet in the air.  JJ lost a pair of goggles and I lost a pair of sunglasses while in the water.  But Brennecke's is 100% fun.

Above is JJ on the left and Sam on the right, bodysurfing Brennecke's.  I didn't have my telephoto lens the first couple time but brought it on our third visit.  I did get a few other riders below.

Hike #5 - Kuilau Trail, Kauai

We missed our Sunday hike last week since we were literally on a plane most of the day so we had to make it up today.  This is our 5th hike for the summer and it is a short one, about 3 miles in a tropical rainforest also known as the Kuilau Trail.  This is the kids' 2nd hike through a tropical rainforest, the first one being Manoa Falls in Oahu last year. 

Being in this part of Kauai is no different than being in the Jurassic Park movie set -- which happened to have been filmed in Kauai.

I did not expect to see too many hikers on this trail -- and we only saw about 10 others on this humid Tuesday.  Not too many animals either considering the island is littered with chickens.  It's also a change from all the dry hikes we've been doing back home in California.

Facing East

One of the things different about Kauai compared to the other Hawaiian islands is that most of the resorts are east-facing.  What that means is the golden hour for taking photographs is early in the morning.  I finally got a good night's rest and was up at 6am local time today -- which is really 9am PDT.  While the kids slept, I peeked through the room-darkening blinds and I had completely forgotten about sunrise in Kapaa.  Hoping for a good day of hiking, swimming and boogie boarding.

Garden Island Greetings

The first 24 hours in Kauai had been a nightmare so far.  Two things I've learned. One, never stay at the Pono Kai Resort again.  Not all units have air conditioning.  Yep, that's a fucking bad assumption that maybe 100% of Americans make -- that is every hotel room in America has A/C.  Not goddam true.  Pono Kai condo we got did not have any A/C of any kind so I had trouble sleep in the humid island air. Second, screw Expedia for travel reservations.  Bastards did not have any warning of any kind that my hotel, which is estimated at $1500 for 10 nights did not have A/C.  So I was rebooked to a very nice Marriot about a mile south of Pono Kai.  But something that this whole fiasco has taught me is that American Express is probably the best friend a consumer can have these days.  I called AMEX and after I told them of my situation, they said I have the right to dispute any charges that both Expedia and Pono Kai might improperly put on my card.  But after getting the whole hotel room sorted out, we did drive to Poipu to boogie board at Brenneke's Beach and it was a blast.  We'll be returning to hit the waves again.

Packing Basics

One day before we leave for Kauai!  Packing only the essentials.  Packing for what we need to do is easy based on this simple routine.  Wake up, eat, swim, hike, snorkel, boogie board, kayak, nap, read a book, draw, eat, sleep.  Repeat for 11 days.

The 50 Guitars of Tommy Garrett

The name of the artist alone caught my attention.  The second time in as many weeks I went to Dr. Strange Records in Rancho Cucamonga and at the first bin I found has these old vinyl for 50c each and 2 for 75c.  How can I resist?  I browsed through all the junk, Streisand, Croce, America, etc. until I found these 3 albums by "The 50 Guitars of Tommy Garrett".  Anyone who has 50 guitars is my hero (for the record, I have less than 20) but this is vintage instrumental music that is the basis for a lot of covers by classic surf bands.  The days of instrumental music is over and these vinyls belong to a very specialized genre amongst record collectors.  After listening to these 3 albums, I'm now on the hunt for more 50 Guitars of Tommy Garrett (I've seen a list of at least 18 releases doing a quick online search).  Although it's doubtful I can get them for 50c each again).

From the website www.spaceagepop.com...
Tommy Garrett was "Snuff" Garrett, A&R director for Liberty from 1958-1966, producer of numerous early 60s hits by white rock-n-roll artists such as Bobby Vee, Johnny Burnette, and Gary Lewis. Garrett also gave Phil Spector his first job in the business, as A&R man in New York for Liberty. He produced a series of LPs for Liberty under the name of "The 50 Guitars of Tommy Garrett," one of the least adventurous and most easy-listening guitar groups, usually arranged by Ernie Wilkins and with Tommy Tedesco as lead guitar. Garrett also produced a number of exotica recordings by "The Midnight String Quartet" and Jonathan Knight on the Viva! label.

47 Days...But Who's Counting

I took the photograph of a rainbow over the First Hawaiian Church in Kapaa during our last visit to Kauai in December 2007.  I wasn't sure I can go back anytime soon but today I'm as sure as I can be.  I finally booked our annual Hawaii trip to the Garden Isle -- June 24th through July 4th.  Yes, that's 47 days away -- 6 weekend from now!  I suppose there's comfort in the familiar so I got a room at the Pono Kai, which is walking distance to most places to eat and is only a short 8 miles from the airport in Lihue.  Hawaiian pancakes, Portuguese sausage, luau, daily ocean swim, Shrimp Station and most of all, I want to find ohana, me and my boys.  And I'm sure if I pay enough attention, I will find the spirits of a dear, old friend.

Pavlovian Conditioning

I've been noticing this for a while now but every time I put on some sunscreen to go riding, I have a form of Pavlovian response to the scent of Coppertone Sport on my face, arms and legs.  Coppertone sunscreen always reminds me of the two weeks every year that we spend in Hawaii, where every day from morning until evening, sunscreen is a necessity.  Coppertone represents good times, worry-free, vacation and fun and obviously, my response to this conditioned stimulus is one that associates what's coming next -- an ocean swim, a cold drink and maybe a luau later on.  When I put it on prior to riding my bike (here in the mainland, of course), all that seems to be missing is the saltwater and I'm transported to the land of Aloha.  It's a strange but totally expected response given that Pavlovian conditioning is commonly accepted as truth.  However, I do wonder if when we go to Kauai this year, whether putting on Coppertone will elicit memories of my bike rides through Rancho Cucamonga.